How to Save Money When Buying PUR for Flat Lamination

You’re browsing the hardware store in search of the perfect hardwood floors when you see it: a sample that looks a lot like wood — for about half the cost. It’s so realistic that if it weren’t for the product label (or the price tag), you’d have mistaken it for the real thing.

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You read the fine print and like what you see. Durable. Easy to install. Lifespan of around 10 to 20 years. Available in no shortage of colors and patterns. You might be shocked to discover that this eye-catching, affordable material is none other than laminate. But it’s not your grandmother’s laminate.

It makes you wonder: Does laminate flooring increase home value, or will it cheapen the look of your whole home with its imitation games? Before you head to the checkout line, you’ll need to be judicious in your choice.

The layers of laminate

You won’t find laminate out in nature. However, it’s not a pure plastic, either. According to FlooringAmerica, a cooperative of more than 500 independent flooring retailers in North America, laminate blends four distinct bonded layers into a single material. Let’s go behind the scenes of how the sausage (i.e., in this case, laminate) gets made:

• Base layer: The first layer of laminate flooring sets the stage by creating a smooth, level foundation. It also serves as the first line of defense against any moisture that could damage the flooring.
• Core layer: Typically made from high-density fiberboard (HDF) or medium-density fiberboard (MDF), this hardworking layer ramps up the protection and creates a firm, durable surface.
• Decorative layer: Would you believe that the top layer of laminate is a high-resolution photograph of whatever material it’s imitating? You’d be amazed how the printed paper overlay mimics stone, wood, or even marble.
• Wear layer: Topping off the multi-layer masterpiece is a protective layer of aluminum oxide. Not only does it seal in the decorative layer, the wear layer also helps to ward off stains, fading, scratches, and other damage that can detract from the beauty of the floor.

Once all the layers are ready to go, a manufacturer will fuse them together using direct-pressure laminate (DPL) construction, with heat reaching up to 300˚F degrees so that everything sticks.

History of laminate flooring

Laminate flooring first started to appear on the market in the s. The earliest versions left a lot to be desired in terms of quality and appearance. These iterations didn’t imitate wood or other materials and by and large resembled plastic. In the ‘70s and ‘80s, laminate designs flooded the market in bright colors and far-out patterns (geometrics or florals, take your pick) that were a far cry from today’s more neutral, nature-inspired designs.

But in the decades since, flooring manufacturers have worked to improve the process to create a more desirable result.

The late 80s and early 90s gave rise to the Pergo company, which sold high-pressure laminate flooring options created by a Swedish chemical company called Perstorp. Pergo became available in the United States in and quickly grew in popularity, as homeowners clamored at the chance to install more sophisticated laminate flooring at a fraction of the cost of hardwood. Even so, the early Pergo options didn’t offer the look of wood or other more expensive materials, and they still had a plastic appearance.

With the technological advancements of today, top brands like Pergo, Mohawk, Armstrong, Shaw, AquaGuard and other flooring manufacturers produce authentic-looking laminate options that appear and feel like wood. Rather than a flat, solid surface, modern laminate floorboards now come with realistic textures and finishes.

Is laminate flooring still popular today?

Although demand for laminate has dipped in recent years, it still comprises nearly 5% of the flooring industry market, behind carpet and rugs, resilient flooring (which comprises several different types explained below), tile, and hardwood.

Carl Young, a top-selling real estate agent in Knoxville, Tennessee, tends to see laminate in secondary bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements, and other utilitarian spaces. He rarely finds it in living rooms or bedrooms.

The catch-all “resilient” flooring category above includes several different flooring types, the most popular of which is luxury vinyl plank (LVP) and luxury vinyl tile (LVT). Young sees the upscale vinyl options more often than laminate. You won’t find a huge cost difference between the two, and LVP has some distinct advantages: it’s higher-quality, more durable, and 100% moisture-proof, making it a practical choice for pet owners.

Benefits of laminate flooring

Laminate remains a popular flooring choice among a certain subset of homeowners for a few key reasons:

Cost:

Budget is typically the biggest driver of the decision to install laminate flooring, which is one of the lowest-cost alternatives. According to HomeAdvisor, homeowners can expect to pay between $1-$5 per square foot for laminate floor materials and an additional $1.50-$3 per square foot for labor.

Wood, by comparison, runs at around $3-$7 per square foot for materials and another $3-$5 per square foot for labor. For a 175-square-foot kitchen, laminate flooring would cost between $437 and $1,400, while hardwood would cost between $1,050 and $2,100.

Ease of installation:

Laminate flooring comes as individual boards or planks that interlock together without any adhesives or nails, which allows the material to “float”  above the subfloor. In some cases, you can install laminate on top of existing wood, concrete, or vinyl flooring, as long as the existing flooring is smooth and level and you use a laminate underlay. This makes laminate much easier and quicker to install than wood or tile. As a result, it has become a popular choice among DIY homeowners.

Durability:

Earlier forms of laminate weren’t known for resisting moisture, but there are now waterproof options that come with a water-resistant core layer. This extra layer buys you some time if the floor is exposed to moisture. (That said, laminate is not completely waterproof like vinyl flooring.) Laminate also won’t scratch, stain, dent, or fade in sunlight like natural wood.

Aesthetic appeal:

Thanks to the latest high-resolution imagery behind laminate’s decorative layer, the material offers a wood-like appearance and texture that is nearly indistinguishable from the real thing. And with so many different design and color options on the market, there’s a little something for everyone.

Shortcomings of laminate flooring

Despite the advantages laminate has to offer and the many efforts made to improve its appearance and performance, the material could disappoint some homeowners who assume that it’s hardwood in disguise. If any of these potential drawbacks spark concern, think twice about your decision to install it:

Water weakness:

Although modern laminate has come a long way in terms of moisture resistance, it’s still not moisture-proof. The high-density fiberboard (HDF) that makes up the middle layers is more vulnerable to moisture than hardwood. In the event that the HDF is water-damaged, the flooring will have to be replaced.

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You can’t refinish it:

One of the perks of natural hardwood is that it can be sanded and refinished again and again, creating a like-new floor without the need to replace it. But with laminate, refinishing isn’t an option if it becomes scratched, stained, or otherwise damaged. There could be the option to replace individual floorboards if the matching style is still available. Otherwise, you’d have to pony up for a full replacement.

Sizing up the value of laminate

For homeowners looking to add new flooring on a tight budget, laminate covers the most ground at an affordable price point. But will the upfront cost savings be eclipsed by a dip in home value?

How does laminate measure up against its higher-priced rivals?

According to Craig Miller, who has been appraising residential single-family and two-to four-family properties since , there is no clear-cut method for assessing flooring value. However, in his experience, most buyers in high-end homes tend to prefer natural hardwood or ceramic. Laminate is more acceptable in low- to mid-range homes.

“In my opinion, the quality of the laminate impacts the home’s value more than the brand,” says Miller. “The laminates that look like hardwood or ceramic tend to be more preferred because of their appearance.”

Amanda Jones, a top-selling real estate agent in San Francisco, says that most homeowners in her high-priced market would opt for natural materials over laminate.

Location matters for laminate

As far as its placement in the home, Miller says laminate is most widely accepted in bathrooms and laundry rooms, followed by kitchens, as it is easier to clean in high-traffic areas. Bedrooms and living rooms are not desirable areas for laminate.

He also points out that buyers with dogs may prefer a high-grade laminate over wood or carpet, because laminate wears better, cleans easier, and doesn’t show scratches like wood.

Jones generally only sees laminate in basements, tenant-occupied units, and lower-income properties. “Laminate is sort of a go-to for property managers,” she says. “It’s rare to see it in primary homes these days.”

Is laminate an upgrade or a downgrade to the previous flooring?

Whether laminate will increase or decrease a home’s value will also depend on what flooring was there before. If the laminate replaces old, worn carpet or sheet vinyl, you could see a value boost. But if the home already has old hardwood, you should refinish the natural wood rather than replace it with lower-quality laminate.

Tips to maximize your laminate investment

If you’re ready to purchase laminate and want to get the most bang for your flooring buck, you’ll want to hear this. Dan DiClerico, an expert in real estate and remodeling who has served as HomeAdvisor’s smart home strategist since , shares his tips on how to maximize your laminate investment:

Check the AC rating:

This is the flooring industry’s way of ranking laminate by durability. AC levels run one through six, with six being the most durable. For areas with lower foot traffic, like a guest bedroom, AC 1 provides sufficient durability, but areas with higher foot traffic, like the kitchen and entryway, usually need an AC 2 or AC 3 rating.

Mix up boards from different boxes:

When installing laminate flooring, the repeated pattern can sometimes start to become noticeable, especially across a large room. To prevent this repetition and achieve a more custom look, DiClerico recommends mixing from different boxes during the installation process.

Think about texture:

The texture of the laminate will determine how well it replicates the look and feel of real hardwood. Embossed laminate creates an authentic wood-like look and texture, but the level of embossing can vary.

“Most manufacturers offer a hand-scraped wood texture for a real-wood look,” DiClerico says. “A high-gloss texture is probably the best option for a finish that will be the most resistant to dents and damage. A clean, modern mirror finish is also desirable for many homeowners.”

Stick with trusted brands:

You’ll find different levels of quality within each brand, but DiClerico suggests Home Legend, Lumber Liquidators, and Pergo for their lines of high-performing laminate flooring in a wide array of stylish designs.

Take good care of your laminate:

Caring for your laminate will help to maximize its longevity. You’ll need to sweep, dust, and vacuum the laminate to remove particles like pebbles or sand that could scratch its surface. For periodic cleaning, DiClerico suggests using a damp mop and a gentle household cleaner, like a vinegar and water solution.

Stay away from steam mops, which can warp the boards, as well as detergent-based cleaners, which can damage the protective plastic layer. Place mats inside any exterior doorways to prevent guests from tracking in debris.

The value of laminate: Your price point and area matter

Many budget-conscious homeowners are finding that today’s more advanced laminate flooring options provide a practical and aesthetically pleasing alternative to more expensive hardwoods and tiles. But the material is not going to be the best fit for every homeowner or every home.

If you’re considering selling your house soon and need to determine which flooring will be best for resale, you won’t regret connecting with a local real estate agent to get their thoughts on what buyers are looking for in your area and how other homes in the area compare. Our ultimate advice? Think through your flooring options twice. Install once!

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Contact us to discuss your requirements of PUR for Flat Lamination. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Pressing 3D Laminates and Blow outs
There are many different tips and tricks to pressing. Often I am asked for formulas however I often find that each company may require different settings based upon the material they are pressing, the profiles, glue type, stage height and so on. One common issue that all companies have or will eventually face are blow outs. During the press cycle you can hear a blow out occur by a pop and a hissing sound. After retrieving the tray from the press you will typically find that dreaded hole and all the parts did not form properly because the press lost its seal.


Blow outs are typically caused by either too high of a heat versus too low heat. You can tell them apart because blowouts by too low heat are more like tears and blow outs by too much heat are typically circles or tear shaped holes that seem uniform.


Keep in mind that raising or lowering the temperature alone may not solve a cold or hot spot issue. Imagine if you raise the temp but get heat issues but lower the temp and get lack of forming.... Other issues may be at play such as having too short of a preheat. If your preheat is too short then it may be possible that the heat did not have time to soak or penetrate the entire thickness of the 3D Laminate.

There are different scenarios where cold spots can form such as using thicker films in a 16 mil to 20 mil where the heat has not soaked all the way through the thickness of the product. Imagine if you are using a very dark color like a Wenge which is almost black and it conducts or absorbs the heat more rapidly however you get cold spots blow outs. Then when you raise the heat you get hot blow outs. The solution to this type of problem can be to do a longer preheat but keeping the temp low enough so that you do not over heat any one particular area of the material. You may also want to use heat strips to ensure you are getting heat distributed uniformly in the press.

With membranes on a Shaw Almex, Wemhoner or Italpress for example you may experience less blowouts because the membrane is the source of pressure and that pressure keeps the blowout from occuring. With an Italpresse with no membrane (for example) that inflates the vinyl to the upper platen you get a balloon where the center of the material is touching the platen and heating up very rapidly however the outer portions may not be heating as rapidly and you can actually experience cold spot blow outs towards the outer perimeter of the press. There are two solutions for this type of problem. The first is to have a longer preheat but at a lower temperature so that you get all the material uniformly pliable but not one portion of the film is so hot that it is weakened. There are some machines in which you can reduce the inflation time and then preheat part of the time with it inflated and then preheat part of the time while its not infated. You may need to contact your machine supplier to ensure that your particular model has this option.

Another scenario with blow outs can be caused by utilizing the Eco Jig pin system manufactured by Dackor. This pin system is an affordable alternative to automatic systems (although not as efficient as an auto system). In the Eco Jig system you must ensure that the pins are pushed under far enough so as not to create a penetration point for the vinyl to hit. By pushing the pins under further it creates an even distribution of pressing at the bottoms of the doors and will stop blowing out under this situation.
In summary, there are many variables which can cause blowouts based upon settings.
Step 1: Determine if are having cold or hot blow outs
Step 2: If raising or lowering temp does not help then try working with your preheat
Step 3: If the above does not work your settings, machine details and problems you are having to [ protected]

I hope that this article was helpful, be sure to contact us for further assistance.
Whitening on the corners of 3D Laminate thermofoil doors
There are many different tips and tricks to pressing. Often I am asked for formulas however I often find that each company may require different settings based upon the material they are pressing, the profiles, glue type, stage height and so on. One common issue that all companies have or will eventually face are whitening on the corners.


There are many misconceptions about what causes whitening on the corners and typically the laminate is blamed for the issue. Although the laminate can be a reason it is not necessarily the culprit. Read more to delve into the issues and the solutions on whitened corners on the doors.


First I'd like to separate lightening from whitening. I define lightened corners as separations between the print layer and the base film layer and whitened corners as separations between the top cap and the print layer. When you see a corner that is lightened it is typically revealing the base layer of the foil. One over generalization is that a lighter backer of the foil is the issue. When thermofoils are produced typically the lighter backer is used as the base tone of the design. Quality manufacturers have dozens of backers whereas a low end manufacturer may have only a few bases to choose or may use a white backer on a dark woodgrain for example. But most common you will find mustard , almond or chocolate backers on most woodgrains and if any foil is over formed it will reveal the base layer and therefore have whitened or lightened corners.

Another common mistake is that you can bend a sample and when it whitens that is evidence that the material will whiten when pressing. When you bend a thermofoil sample and it whitens it typically is forcing the top layer away from the base layer and this is very common among quality manufacturers and will not necessarily cause whitening on the edges when pressing. It in fact shows how they produce their film in respect to the printing layers whether direct printed, reverse printed or at what temperature the material was laminated at. In fact, many high end manufacturers darker colors will whiten when you bend them. So if a sales person grins and bends his sample to show that it doesn't whiten they are trying to show their product is of a higher quality but it is really just a bi-product of how they produce their product or may even show that their company doesn't even have the capability to produce by direct print with a finished top cap. They may actually be showing a weakness of their product and not even knowing it. By bending a sample it will not necessarily stop whitening on the corners when membrane pressing. In the application of miter folding PVC bending the sample does in fact have a direct correlation to whitening issues because the part will be bent at a lower temp whereas in membrane pressing the part is formed at full temp.

Want to know how to tell the difference between a top cap separation and a print layer separation?.... The key way to tell is if your parts lighten to a clear or bluish edge or if they whitened to the color of the base of the film. If they whiten to the base of the film then its not caused by the top layer separating. If the corner of the door is in fact bluish or clear in tone you can test it by rubbing it with a block of wood or flaring it with a heat gun. In a miter folding application of a thermofoil a wooden block or heat gun can be used to reseal the top cap to the whitened area. In a membrane pressing application the key will typically be to use a higher heat so that it soaks through the foil and does not cause a separation between a top cap and a print layer.

The most common problem with lightened corners are caused by either too much or too little heat. With too much heat you will over stretch the material and will typically find the outer doors that do not have jigs or are not on the edge of the table. The material is heated up too high and then there is no jig or tray filler to capture material and then the laminate may get over stretched on the corners. A simple solution is to put a jig / tray filler close to the edge.

Another common problem with lightened corners are caused by too little heat. When the material is too soft or has cold spots on the table the material can separate on the print in the areas where it is being stretched the most which is typically the edge or corners of the doors. You can put a heat strip in various places on the press to find any cold or hot spots in your table.

For darker colors such as a Wenge which has ticking you may also find that these darker colors are more likely to have too much heat applied to fast. What I mean is that the dark woodgrains are likely to absorb heat faster than a lighter woodgrain and especially when using bulb heating elements. In addition if the foil has aggressive ticking you may find that these deep ticks become separation starters. So the material pulls apart faster between the ticks. The solution for this is to move a jig / table filler closer to that edge and it should solve the problem right away.

In general most press operators think in terms of board feed rate in their saws or imput data into the press machine but we often have to think of membrane pressing as more of an art. To recap,

1. Whitened corners can be due to the material being too hot. Solution: Put fillers closer to the edge of the part
2. Whitened corners can be due to the material being too cold. Solution: Increase the preheat by 10%. Be sure to use heat strips to ascertain this
3. Dark woodgrains or items with deep texture can whiten easier. Solution: Put fillers closer to the edge of the part

I hope that you find this post helpful and if you would like to add any tips or points please feel free to send me an . Manufacturers of 3D Laminates know that the product has many advantages as compared with HPL and other surfaces. 3DL's impact resistance can be far superior to most laminate surfaces and the taber abrasion can be extremely high especially with solid colors whitch are homogeneous. But how about scratch resistance? In this article I'd like to discuss some obscure tricks on how scratch resistance is obtained with 3DL that most companies don't share.
Firstly, each company has claims that their product is more durable based upon a unique or proprietary lacquer. Although each company has its own formulation the real secret is in tweaking a combination of lacquer and texture. Also gloss level of the print layer and lacquers can play a roll as well as the color of the print however this article is meant to focus on a specific subject of texture which is one of the biggest factors that contribute to scratch resistance of 3DL.

OK... so to start....
The most common lacquers are polyurethanes or polyurethane combinations. Applying lacquer is key to protect the top surface's hills and valleys and provide hardness to the surface. This sounds like the end all be all solution however in reality if a sharp objects digs into the peaks (hill tops of the texture) in a certain way then its irrelevant as to how much or what type top coat is applied. Think of your carpet and running your foot over the carpet. The carpet is not damaged however you moved the carpet strands in a different direction it gives the appearance of difference and that is at the basis of what a surface scratch really is. So if you think about it, a micro level, scratches to most surfaces are either a displacing or a removing of surface area. In theory a top coat will protect a scratch from occurring however in practice its only one component to creating a scratch resistant surface.

In general a higher texture combined with lacquer is a way to get an overall scratch resistant surface. Some woodgrain designs, for example may have a lighter texture from one supplier due to market demand and when you try to scratch it, the appearance is that that supplier's product is less scratch resistant however upon closer inspection you may find that if they put the same texture on they would get equal scratch performance. So its very difficult to judge scratch resistance between supplier if you are not measuring apples to apples. Since each supplier uses different textures and different lacquer/gloss level combos it also may impact the scratch resistance performance in that single color.

Another point is in the texture layout. Imagine a texture on a microscopic level and when a sharp object moves in a straight line it is removing hills on the tops of the texture. If the texture is spaced in a certain way to make the hill tops more random it can trick the eye into not seeing the scratches as easily.  This can also be achieved by making different heights of texture in the emboss. Imagine at certain pressure points only knocking off a certain height of textures however with just slight more pressure it may finally break into the next layer of texture hills. Its another clever way to enable an object to glide across the top of the texture yet not see the scratch as easily with the naked eye. Surprised by this observation? As with any product, the expertise in product design combined with the marketability of its appearance all come into play in order to achieve a result. You may in fact, start to see all the complexity that goes into creating a 3DL.

You will also notice that dark colors show scratches more easily. Lighter colors absorb the light and blind your eyes to the scratches that are on the surface so to speak.

So, in conclusion,  there are a variety of ways to make a scratch resistant 3DL... Lacquer, quantity of texture, color of design and texture layout on the microscopic level. The items just mentioned must also be used in proper combos to create the best affect.