Anchor Bolts Archives - Portland Bolt

Anchor Bolts Installation

How do you torque anchor bolts?

When tightening a nut onto anchor bolts, it is important to follow procedures to ensure proper installation and secure fastening. Here is a general outline: Clean the threads of any debris or rust using a wire brush or similar tool. If specified apply wax to threads and bearing surfaces. Place the nut on the anchor bolt and hand-tighten... Read more

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Your Best Lag Screw Order

What should you know about Lag Screws before ordering?

Lag screws are used in wood and are installed by rotating the head to screw the lag screw into the wood. Since lag screws are designed to drive into the wood instead of being secured with a nut they have deeper and sharper threads than your average hex-headed bolt which typically uses UNC (national course)... Read more

Anchor Rods & Bolts

How are Threaded Anchor Rods Used in Concrete?

There are a variety of configurations of anchor bolts and anchor rods, such as headed anchor bolts, bent anchor bolts, thread each-end rods, and fully threaded rods. When an anchor rod is specified, it is most likely a rod with threads on each end or a fully threaded rod. If the rod has threads on... Read more

Light Pole Anchor Bolts

What Sized Anchor Bolts are Used for Light Poles?

Anchor bolts for light poles are configured in several ways. Ordering them can often be confusing and this FAQ will attempt to simplify that process. Light poles each have specific designs and the anchor bolts are designed to the exact specifications of each light pole to match the strength properties and pullout resistance needed to... Read more

ASTM A490 vs. ASTM A325 Bolts

Is There a Difference Between ASTM A490 and ASTM A325 Bolts?

The short answer is that F Grade A490 heavy hex structural bolts have higher strength requirements than A325 heavy hex structural bolts. A325 bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 120ksi while A490 bolts have a tensile strength range of 150-173ksi. In addition, there are a few other differences shown below. Coatings A325 structural bolts... Read more

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Cast-in-Place vs. Post-Installed Anchors

What is the difference between cast-in-place anchors and post-installed anchors?

Anchor bolts come in several different configurations, such as 90-degree bent, headed, rods with threads on each end, or fully threaded rods to name a few. Anchor bolts can be made in many grades. shapes and sizes, however, there are two distinct categories of anchor bolts: post-installed anchors and cast-in-place anchors. Although both types essentially... Read more

Three Radial Lines on a Hex Bolt

I am replacing old 1-3/4” diameter hex bolts that are marked with 3 radial lines. What grade are these bolts?

The SAE J429 Grade 5 specification used to share the same head marking requirement as ASTM A449. A449 and Grade 5 are virtually identical both chemically and mechanically, but where the Grade 5 specification stops at 1-1/2” diameter, A449 continues up to 3”. They shared the three radial line head marking that Grade 5 still... Read more

Fully Threaded Headed Bolts

Can Portland Bolt make fully threaded headed bolts?

It depends. To answer this question, we have to go into the details about the different ways to we can thread a bolt. As well as different head styles.  Roll Thread  We can thread to within 2” of the head. We can thread up to 1” diameter bolts that are mild steel, stainless steel, or... Read more

Standard Bend Radius

What is the standard bend radius on right angle anchor bolt?

ASME B18.31.5 is, “The standard that establishes general requirements for parts classified as bent bolts.“ According to this specification, “The inside diameters or bend radii shall be as agreed between the buyer and manufacturer, as each dimension depends on material characteristics.” In essence, there is no standard guideline for the radius of the bend in... Read more

Anchor Rod Thread Length

How do I know how much thread length I need on my anchor rods?

Hi, new to the forum, also about to be a new owner of a garage.

Pad is complete, however with one (hopefully) minor problem. However bear with me as I am fairly ignorant to some of the details and jargon in the construction world.

The concrete guy did not install the L bolts during the pour (anchor bolts as I've also heard them referred to). He gave me some reason but at this point it is moot as it changes nothing. He told me he would install them in a few days when the concrete hardens up. I assume he is drilling the 1/2" bolts in, how else would he install them right? Here is where I get nervous and my carpenter is also getting edgy. The curb is 4" wide, not a whole lot of room for any error here.

My questions are:

Is installing these bolts after the concrete is laid/hardened a big problem, does if happen all the time etc?

Can this be screwed up and become a much bigger problem?

Are there absolute no no's in trying to pull this off, or are there sure fire ways to do this and not screw this up?

If this were to go totally wrong, what solutions are there before having to resort to tearing up a pad?

FWIW this garage is located in north east Ohio, so it will most likely never see hurricane type winds.

Thanks for any advice, I am freaking out, and hopefully for no reason.

Hi, new to the forum, also about to be a new owner of a garage.

Pad is complete, however with one (hopefully) minor problem. However bear with me as I am fairly ignorant to some of the details and jargon in the construction world.

The concrete guy did not install the L bolts during the pour (anchor bolts as I've also heard them referred to). He gave me some reason but at this point it is moot as it changes nothing. He told me he would install them in a few days when the concrete hardens up. I assume he is drilling the 1/2" bolts in, how else would he install them right? Here is where I get nervous and my carpenter is also getting edgy. The curb is 4" wide, not a whole lot of room for any error here.

My questions are:

Is installing these bolts after the concrete is laid/hardened a big problem, does if happen all the time etc?

Can this be screwed up and become a much bigger problem?

Are there absolute no no's in trying to pull this off, or are there sure fire ways to do this and not screw this up?

If this were to go totally wrong, what solutions are there before having to resort to tearing up a pad?

FWIW this garage is located in north east Ohio, so it will most likely never see hurricane type winds.

Thanks for any advice, I am freaking out, and hopefully for no reason.

The "L" bolts as you call them have to be set when the concrete is wet. Now he will have to use some type of anchor bolt that has to be drilled in as described in the above posts. No covering at all, hand troweled everything. I asked if I should hose it down and he said it isn't necessary, I've read quite the opposite the past few days (so I'm torn there).

I'm mostly going by the opinion of my carpenter, since he has 20 years experience of working on fresh pads while building garages. In his opinion it is a horrible pad. Curbs look pretty bad in some spots, some sagging. Curbs definitely do not stay level with a string test. Not sure to what nth degree the pad should be level using the same string test, but there is inconsistencies from front to back and left to right.

I will post pics tomorrow if it helps form an opinion for others.

The hand troweling could explain the varying color of the cured concrete. As long as the surface is hard and not powdery, you should be fine. I have no experience with a concrete curb on a slab but I will say that generally, slabs will have some inconsistencies. They are formed with boards and boards are not always exactly straight.

I'm talking about the grade consistency. The pad looks very square, it was the most square forming job a few of my experienced friends ever saw in their words. But running the string on the ground front of pad to rear (on both L&R sides) there were noticeable gaps, same when running string from left to right (in both front & back). Again not sure if that is poor workmanship or mostly unavoidable stuff.

its not necessary because he dosent want to do it, he didnt install the l bolts because hard to finish around the bolt. Your concrete guy is a hack. somebody who been doing it wrong for twenty years. The slab needs to cure, that means wet it down and cover with plastic for seven days. Epoxy bolts are fine and meet code but sure is more expensive than l bolts. Your concrete guy stupidity is costing you extra money

To be accurate here my carpenter is the one with 20 years exp. telling me the concrete guy is a hack. No idea how long the concrete guy has been in biz.

ETA: again my biggest concern with the bolts now needing to be drilled in is that they will blow out the very narrow curb.

I'm talking about the grade consistency. The pad looks very square, it was the most square forming job a few of my experienced friends ever saw in their words. But running the string on the ground front of pad to rear (on both L&R sides) there were noticeable gaps, same when running string from left to right (in both front & back). Again not sure if that is poor workmanship or mostly unavoidable stuff.

The standard test for floor flatness is to check it with a 10' straightedge. Gaps under 1/8" means you have a very good floor. Gaps under a 1/4" aren't that unusual. Worse than that and you didn't get a great job.

Doesn't sound like this guy was working under any particular spec so you a pretty much stuck with whatever he gave you. Based on the rest of your post, I wouldn't expect great results.

EDiT: Didn't see the pictures before I made this post. There are definitely issues here beyond flatness. The workmanship is not good. With what I can see, I'd be worried about what I can't see. Don't give the man any more money! You may find that the color goes more consistent after some time. I only watered for a couple of days and it took my slad=b almost 3 weeks to go from "blotchy" to a uniform color.

I put in the anchors on mine - 12" from the corners and about every 6'. I put marks on the forms where I wanted them so none ended up in a stud. I wanted a bit long on a couple but I was able to hammer them in and fill around the hole with fresh concrete. Out of 24, only one had a little wiggle and one sunk a bit too far, ending up with just enough thread to get the nut started.

I'm sorry about the curbs - there will be issues there. Stuff happens during a pour - mine has about a 2" variance in level over 40' because we banged some of the forms by accident. No big deal to me. The plate areas are level and flat enough that I could just run a bead of concrete caulk under the plates to seal them to the slab.

I would be looking at cleaning then raising the curbs some number - maybe 1" - and adding all thread rods with epoxy (or anchors) about every 4', then using some kind of quality mortar or leveling material to get a consistent plate surface. Not an expoert in that area, but I'd think there would be something available.

I would also double check "square", or have your carpenter do it. Here is the big catch, the code for curbs is 4" minimum, the plans given to city to obtain permit had 4" curb requirements, no where on the entire pad do the curbs measure out to 4", the variances are from 3.387 to 3.8 at most.

Technically not able to build according to code, then add the fact that .5" anchor bolts need to be drilled in, never going to happen without blowing out the curb at some if not many spots.

Not to mention some other areas of unacceptable failures, even the pitch is wrong and possibly out of spec. Water is not running down hill out of the garage at this point. Saw cut never done, I was asked if I wanted a saw cut, not truly knowing what the purpose was I was told sometimes people want em sometimes they don't and that it doesn't really do anything. OMG. Found out it is not an option like leather seats on a car, it is a code standard procedure and MUST be done regardless of customers desires. You need to call your state contractor's licensing board first thing Tuesday morning. Send em pictures. Often the threat of action against a contractor's license will motivate them. In Cal. contractors have a performance bond that can be seized by the state licensing board to help reimburse a customer that
they have screwed over.
Take more pictures, write everything down while it's still fresh in your mind. Ask the licensing board what your options are. You may or may not need to lawyer up depending on how things go.
On the other hand if this guy isn't licensed your options are rather more limited.

Oh, one more thing you might do. Get a reputable contractor to come out and examine the work and write a short letter about the deficiencies of the work. This will come in handy if you end up needing to seize this guys bond. Also whatever else you do, do not let this jerk come back and try to fix what he fxxxd up in the first place.

All that said, you as a home owner have a responsibility to do your due diligence on anybody you hire to do work for you. I don't mean this unkindly, but this was an entirely avoidable situation. Always check references, always see if there are complaints against their license (if they're are licensed). This takes time and effort (which is why people skip doing it) but it largely avoids the kind of the kind of crap you now have to wade through to get your project moving again. Best of luck resolving the situation and do keep us posted as to what happens. Quick update on the situation/solution.

Turns out this clown is a real piece of work, typical clown with no assets and an extremely low probability of collecting if I got a legal judgement in my favor (which is an almost certainty in talking with my lawyer). Dude has enough of a criminal record that it just isn't worth dealing with retaliation tactics if he went that route.

Have to suck it up an take it as a lesson learned (shame a friend of a friend referral would end up as such).

As far as the concrete solution, city rejected the pad as is. So normally a ripping it out and re-pouring would be the solution. However a pretty sharp guy in the biz came up with an alternative to save a few G's. Cut and knock off curbs and pour a new pad on top of this one, with new curbs. The old pad would simply act as part of the foundation. It allows the opportunity to easily fix the pitch issues and re-level this for the building of the structure. With a few precautionary measure there is no reason it will not be more than suffice and long as last as any other pad done right the first time.

As long as the city is cool with it hopefully my problem is solved. Having a reputable guy with good relationships with the city inspectors makes this a high probability of a go.