The Acetate Debate
It’s time for you to choose some new eyeglasses. You may feel utterly swamped by the vast selection of frames out there. Perhaps you are feeling overloaded with information from your latest Google searches. What is the best material? Why do I keep running into this word “acetate”? Why are the prices so different between acetate glasses?
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Many glasses are made of acetate. But all acetate eyeglasses are not created equal. Let’s start with the basics.
What Are Acetate Glasses?
Acetate is otherwise known as cellulose acetate, zyl or zylonite. Acetate is one of the earliest made synthetic fibers. Remarkably, first used for framing spectacles in the late ’s due to problems with previously used plastics. Nowadays it is stunning stuff, with a deep gloss and high transparency. The higher the quality acetate the better the gloss and transparency will look. Wearers often describe the material as a more ‘natural feel’—a first of many differences when compared toto standard plastics.
Acetate is made up of a (bio) polymer derived from wood (tree) pulp and/or natural cotton fibers. These cellulosic fibers have been replaced over the years by cheaper options such as injected nylon and polyester, both of which are petroleum-based plastics. In some cases, nylon is a reasonable material for eyewear—such as for impact or heat resistance in sports eyewear or safety goggles. However, when for fashionable spectacles this material is almost always used to cut cost. The result is a lower quality and less aesthetically appealing final design.
Acetate is vastly preferable for eyeglasses over other plastics for these reasons:
- Does not harm the environment
- Is made from renewable materials
- Is hypoallergenic
- Come in all colors of the rainbow
- Can be made beautifully transparent
- High grade versions are fit adjustable by opticians
These are several strong attributes demonstrating that this plant-based product is highly unique. Today’s premium acetate frames are known for their lightweight thin constructions and strength. Yet they remain flexible with a glass like clarity. Furthermore, they boast the widest range of finishes—from high luster polish, matte, or brushed.
How Are Acetate Glasses Made?
To achieve the highest quality it is very important that the highest grade of cellulose acetate available is used. Hundreds of elaborate processes go into each frame, and a multitude of craftspeople contribute to the final product.
- Acetate Sheets: New acetate combinations are generated by mixing organic colors with acetone and the raw acetate plant based material. Rollers help mix the paste onto already thin flat sheets of acetate to achieve the special color effects. Complex colorations are produced by layering several colors and sandwiching them together or pressing them through a variety of dies. The acetate film may be chopped into small cubes and rollered again. These layers are molded into large blocks. After which technicians intricately slice off single new sheets which are dried in large kilns for several weeks to cure the material.
- Cutting and Forming: The frames are cut to shape using computer controlled mills according to the design input by the technician. The individual frame components are then hand finished by different highly trained technicians. They form the curve of the frame front, press the core wires and hinges into the acetate material. They apply the nose pads and hand finish many other features according to the design.
- Polishing: The frame components are placed in barrels about the size of a washing machine full of wood chips and small stone. The components are tumbled together for many hours. After which, each frame is buffed by hand by an experienced technician to a highly polished luster.
- Assembly: Further technicians fasten the arms to the frames with rivets and tiny screws. Lenses are inserted and the frame adjusted and cleaned.
The level of experience of the craftsperson of each step above has a direct impact on the finish quality of a frame. Investing in quality craftsmanship results in a well-made frame.
Handmade Acetate Eyeglass Frames
To illustrate the difference in quality of acetate glasses we could compare it to coffee. We are all aware of the difference between a great and a gross dose of the stuff. Yet it’s all made the same way, right? Absolutely wrong! It’s all down to how the raw materials are produced, processed and crafted. It’s the same with eyewear, yet even more complicated.
Generally speaking, it is the higher end frame manufacturers located in Japan and Europe who create the finest products. The skill of craftspeople is vital due to the handmade nature of acetate frames. Japanese artisans are world renowned and frames made in Japan are generally considered superior. They provide intricate attention to detail when working with acetate. Legendary producer of the material, Takiron, is known to produce a harder acetate which consequently holds it’s shape better-even with very thin frame designs. For this reason Japanese acetate (zyl) is often preferred and has material longevity that is unrivaled.
Comparison of Eyeglass Frame Materials
Although clear glasses frames have been around for many years, they just recently gained in popularity. Crystal-clear acetate eyeglasses are BIG news this season. Not only a cool alternative to rimless frames, but you can share their eco-friendly and renewable energy roots with pride.
Frames like Platte in Diamond or Richmond in Citrine are handcrafted from first class acetate in a thrilling translucent finish. Being colorless or with a slight tint, they are almost invisible from afar. While many of us are used to choosing bold frames in darker colors, this translucent trend is not to be missed. Clear framed glasses go well with almost any complexion and outfit. The ultimate, timeless piece.
Colored Acetate Glasses Frames
Acetate retains its vibrant color over time due to its hue being embedded in the material, as opposed to being sprayed on. This technique also prevents any color peeling. Unique aging stabilizers in acetate further prevent fading or discoloration from skin contact or UV light.
If you prefer dark colors then check out laminated versions with the light colors on the interior side, which can make your eyewear ‘vanish’ from your visual field when you wear them. On the other hand, an all-black frame may appear more visible at all times on both interior and exterior sides.
Adulate Acetate
When considering acetate over other materials, it may be worth asking yourself the following questions:
- Is your frame produced sustainably and with limited effect on our planet?
- Is your frame built to last and features a long pedigree?
- Is your frame able to provide a rich and lasting color?
- Is your frame premium handmade quality?
Although frames are all considered the same product, they have HUGE differences. Think of the ethos behind our coffee analogy. Finally, whether you wish to frame your face with symmetrical square, preppy round, slanted cat eye or something in between, we strongly suggest exploring acetate frames. They really are quite a spectacle…
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Acetate glasses have been around for decades, dating back to the s. Made in rich colors, this timeless material strikes a balance between form and function. Whether a cat eye or classic tortoiseshell, acetate frames have kept up with trends remaining popular to this day.
Understanding acetate, its uses, and how to care for it can help you choose frames that work double duty being as stylish as they are durable. We'll unpack the value of acetate in frame design, show you how to select frames, highlight famous frames across the decades, and provide guidance on how to care for your acetate glasses in this guide.
What are Acetate Glasses?
Acetate or cellulose acetate is a plant-based plastic made from organic sources like cotton and wood pulp. It is not a petroleum-based plastic, making it more sustainable, lightweight, hypoallergenic, and an ideal frame for those conscious of their carbon footprint. Acetate glasses are not only a favorite of buyers looking for hypoallergenic and sustainable eyewear options, designers also prefer them.
Acetate frames offer a number of benefits. First, they are durable, stronger, and more flexible than synthetic plastic. Due to its chemical composition, they also allow for very rich and deep hues, patterns, and translucent tones, another bonus for designers. For wearers, they are a very comfortable fit and are lightweight and easily adjustable. Additionally, synthetic plastic frames can look mass-produced, whereas acetate has a high-end vintage aesthetic.
Acetate Glasses vs. Plastic Glasses
Acetate sunglasses are made from high-quality, plant-based plastic derived chiefly from cotton or wood, whereas plastic refers to injection-molded materials like polycarbonate or nylon. While plastic is budget-conscious, lightweight, and inexpensive, they are less durable over time and prone to cracking or warping. Plastic colors are also painted or coated, which can fade or chip over time. Acetate glasses are layered, cut, and polished, which results in a more durable product that is less prone to warping and wear. Because of their flexibility and strength, they are often preferred by designers.
Acetate Glasses Trends: Decade-by-Decade
Acetate is a surprisingly old and organic frame material. Appearing in the s, Acetate took off, being the material of choice for the cat-eye shape. Precisely because they can hold new and interesting shapes, they are a favorite of designers. Below is our quick recap of acetate trends over time.
s Cat-Eye Glasses & Classic Tones
In the s, acetate started appearing as a material that denoted femininity and glamour in black, ivory, tortoiseshell, and soft blush with cat eye and browline frames. Another advantage of acetate is its ability to hold embellishments, including metallic inlays and pavé crystals. Celebrities and everyday consumers embraced these shapes and acetate frames.
s Mod and Minimal Glasses
Think Austin Powers and the space-aged and bright designs that typify the s, which used the acetate material for eyewear. Mod-style eyewear, oversized round glasses, and Lennon-style frames with keyhole bridges were popular. We saw designers use white, clear, two-tone, and black and white combos.
s Oversized and Earthy Glasses
With the dawn of the s, the acetate frame remained a must-have. However, they took a very dramatic size overhaul with squares and aviators, over the round frames of the s. Oversized acetate frames were a must-have accessory for both men and women in earth tones, including amber, honey, tortoiseshell, and deeper brown. Lenses also included gradient styles, which reappeared over the years.
s Bold and Beautiful Glasses
The 80s were bold, and many made statements with thick rimmed rectangles, exaggerated round frames, and in neon colors like cherry red, cobalt blue, and in stripes. Acetate frames allow for bold design and big colors in all types of shapes.
s Minimalist Revival Glasses
Grunge and minimalism adopted some older styles and toned down frames from the obtuseness of the s, and called back clean lines and more retro styles. Some popular styles included wire-acetate hybrids, small ovals, and cat-eye retro frames. New subdued colors include smoky gray and matte black.
Vintage Meets Modern: s Glasses and Beyond
Acetate glasses, like other fashion, come full circle. Both the s and current styles blend retro patterns and shapes with modern sustainability and comfort. Transparent hues to recycled tortoise blends, in ethically sourced material, with anti-glare lenses, are modern updates that we see in modern acetate eyewear.
Our top styles at Vint & York include cat eyes from the s, round Lennon from the s, oversized square frames from the s, and classic Wayfarers from the s.
Caring for Acetate Frames
Acetate frames are incredibly durable, but should be properly maintained for long wear. First, we recommend using a microfiber cloth for daily cleaning. Be sure to store glasses in the appropriate-sized case. Since they are made of sustainable materials, they are subject to warping and can be damaged by cleaning agents and heat. Do not leave them in hot cars or in situations where they may be overheated, and only clean them with mild soap and water.
Top Trends for Acetate Frames
and are arguably all about acetate. Eyewear fashion icons include Charli XCX, Hailey Bieber, and many others who wear almost exclusively acetate frames, and in the case of the former, rarely remove them. Two trends that will continue to lead the charge for celebrities and consumers are oversized geometric acetate frames and pastel and translucent frames.
Geometric frames feature sharp angles and thick rims, giving a dramatic and structured look. YSL launched a sunglasses frame that is dominating the streets this Spring. The trend also includes angular squares to rounded designs, with thicker temples and sculpted edges. Pastel and translucent frames are softer and perfect for spring and summer. Some colors we see are lavender, mint green, and baby blue, recalling some of the baby style hues of the s. However, you choose, soft or structured, an acetate frame is a timeless choice for all generations.
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