5 Things to Know Before Buying wood chamfer strip

Chamfer and roundover are two common edge profiles in making woodworking projects. It can enrich the shape of wood products, and can also improve the durability and comfort of use.

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When you want to chamfer and round over wood edges, the first thing that comes to your mind is to use a router. It is the quickest and simplest way for edge profiling.

In this guide, you can learn what chamfers and roundovers are, different tools to chamfer and round over wood edges, and how to cut both edges. Just keep on reading and get more information.

Basics about Chamfers and Roundovers

What is a Chamfer?

A chamfer is a transition edge formed between two surfaces by cutting away part of the wood edge. It is sometimes defined as a bevel, usually forming a 30° or 45° bevel between two adjoining right-angled surfaces. You can see it often in modern minimalist furniture.

It can turn the sharp angle into a flat one, reduce the risk of sharp corners, and bring a more pleasant touch. It also creates the basis of subsequent wood joining.

What is a Roundover?

A Roundover is the opposite of a chamfer, designed to turn a flat, straight edge into a rounded, curved shape. It is especially prominent when the overall workpiece is curved and streamlined.

The round edge can give you a more delicate and smooth touch. Commonly used in classic furniture with rich shapes, children's furniture, tool handles, and other scenarios that require rounded edges.

Advantages of Chamfers and Roundovers

Improve comfort. The square materials with 90° edges can cause discomfort to the operator's hand, especially when handling the hardwood. Smoothing the edges by chamfering and rounding over can reduce the risk of injury from sharp parts during the operation.

Increase aesthetics. Chamfering and rounding over the edges can increase the layering and professional finish of the product's design.

Enhance durability. Chamfers and roundovers effectively remove the sharp parts of the material, which decreases the damage caused by friction or collision in the subsequent process.

Tools Used for Chamfers and Rounovers

Although the purpose of the two types of edge processing is the same, there are some differences in the equipment and tools used due to the different processing methods.

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• For chamfers: router, sandpaper, chisel, hand plane, jointer, table saw, and miter saw.
• For roundovers: router, sandpaper, chisel, and hand plane.

For the tools and equipment mentioned above, the jointer, table saw, and miter saw are the ones that can only cut chamfers, while the rest can cut both edges.

1. Router: Both a handheld router and a router table are the most common ways to cut chamfers and roundovers with precision.
2. Sandpaper: It is a great solution when you want to break a sharp edge rather than add an edge profile.
3. Chisel: If you wanna create chamfers and roundovers on a very short edge, which does not provide much reference surface for a router, a chisel and a steady hand can do the trick.
4. Hand plane: It can quickly break sharp edges and cut small chamfers and roundovers.
5. Jointer: You only need to tilt the fence to the right angle and feed the wood edge through the jointer.
6. Table saw & miter saw: They can cut multiple even chamfers. All you need to do is adjust the angle of the saw blade.

How to Chamfer and Round Over Wood Edges

In this section, we will specialize in how to chamfer and round over wood with a router.

How to Chamfer Wood Edges?

1. Determine the target angle according to the design requirements.
2. Mark the angle with a pencil as a reference when chamfering.
3. Choose a chamfer router bit with the right angle and mount it securely on the router.
4. Power on the router.
5. Hold the workpiece close to the cutter and push the wood forward at an even speed.
6. Power off the router and sand the surface after the chamfering process.

How to Round Over Wood Edges?

1. Determine the radius and position of the arc on the workpiece according to the usage environment.
2. Select a roundover router bit of the correct size and mount it on the router.
3. Power on the router.
4. Adjust the feeding speed appropriately based on the cutting radius.
5. Power off the router.

Bonus Tips - Edge Profiling Safety

Safety is a top priority that should never be overlooked during woodworking. When using power tools, always wear personal protective equipment (PPE) such as goggles, earplugs, and masks to prevent dust and wood chips. In addition to this, you should consider the following matters:

1. Installation and replacement of the router bits should be done with the machine powered off.
2. Before chamfering and rounding, make sure the wood is at the right moisture level. Wood that is too dry or too wet will affect the finish.
3. Make sure the tools are sharp. Dull tools tend to cause uneven cutting surfaces and affect the final result.
4. Cut in the direction of the wood grain to minimize surface burrs.

Summary

After reading this post, you can choose the tool that suits your needs to create chamfers and roundovers on woodworking projects. FindBuyTool offers you high-quality chamfer router bits and roundover router bits to cut accurate and smooth edges. Be careful and pay attention to your safety.

FAQ About How to Cut Chamfers and Roundovers on Wood Edges

#1. What is the best tool for rounding edges of wood?

The best tool for rounding edges of wood is a router because it cuts the wood edges quickly and precisely.

#2. What is the difference between rounding and chamfer?

A chamfer is a transitional edge usually with a 30° or 45° bevel between two adjoining right-angled surfaces. A rounding is designed to turn a flat, straight edge into a rounded, curved shape, improving safety and aesthetic appeal.

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I have been using a block plane for chamfering for a few years, but I'm not skilled enough to produce uniform results over the full length. When I'm done, the result is a chamfer, but it looks just like what it was in that it was done free hand. Does anyone use a quide of some type to get more consistent results? I know it seems like a simple question, but I think I must be missing something. For what it's worth, I use a LN 102 or an old Stanley 118. Thanks for any thoughts on the matter.

I have been using a block plane for chamfering for a few years, but I'm not skilled enough to produce uniform results over the full length. When I'm done, the result is a chamfer, but it looks just like what it was in that it was done free hand. Does anyone use a quide of some type to get more consistent results? I know it seems like a simple question, but I think I must be missing something. For what it's worth, I use a LN 102 or an old Stanley 118. Thanks for any thoughts on the matter.

I use the chamfer attachment for my LV block plane; Orlando posted a pic. It helps me not look like I did it with my feet.

You could make a guide for your block plane. I believe this one is screwed to the original 90-degree fence of his skew block plane, but you could even just attach one to the sole with doublestick tape.

I built a custom chamfer fence for a LV skew block plane.

Or you could overachieve and make your own dedicated chamfer plane.

Mostly I use a block plane to chamfer edges. If you want, use a cutting gauge or pencil line to mark the dimensions.

When I want precision, then I use a chamfer plane I built ...



This has a 15 degree bed and a BU configuration, which suits two blades - one high angle for with the grain and one low angle for across the grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I mean, I think the main thing is practice. I wasn't thrilled with my hand made chamfers, (nor the stopped parts I was making at the end when trying to do stopped chamfers) so when I built a couple of saw benches recently I took it as an opportunity to chamfer pretty much every edge, and experiment with a variety of chamfer widths. By the end, they were coming out pretty spot on.

Plan ahead, and chamfer things before assembly where it makes sense - if nothing else, it may let you use a larger plane, which helps making a more even surface. If the piece is clamped or secured on your bench, you can find the angle you want with the plane, and running the side along the bench may make things easier.

You're marking your desired chamfer, right? Don't go too deep with a mark if you're using a gauge, but even just some pencil lines to follow will help tremendously with getting a consistent chamfer.

The other thing that helped me was to look at how I was holding the plane; I end up with my fingers or a thumb curled under the plane somehow (How exactly depends on the plane, and how and where I'm using it on the piece) to sort of act as a fence to help me keep the angle consistent. Similar to how some folks recommend doing with your leading hand when jointing a narrow board. Don:

How I was taught was sub-thou shavings with a LN 102 as follows:
2 -3 strokes at 45*, 2-3 strokes at 22.5* on either side of the original cut, inspect and repeat as necessary.
With the really fine shavings, the chamfer seems as though it was sanded ( to the touch ) but in a raking light,
you can see the lines, AND, there is a clarity to the wood that only planing will obtain.

Oh, yes, like Joshua noted; practice.

Hope that helps;

Dave Beauchesne