Jonathan Wendt, Director, Global Applications, BQT Solutions looks at the ten critical questions you should be asking before selecting door hardware.

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The door lock, once a simple mechanical device to keep a door secured, now stands at the intersection of asset security and electronic innovation.

Security professionals, integrators, specifiers and architects no longer choose ‘just’ a lock, they select a product that will protect assets but also enable seamless access, ensure safe ingress and egress as well as integrate with security systems to track access – and they may want it to look good too.  

As someone who’s guided countless security professionals through this decision process, I’ve witnessed how the right hardware choice can make or break a security system.

Whether you’re managing commercial facilities, healthcare institutions or educational campuses, here are ten questions I get security professionals to consider before committing to a door hardware solution. 

1. What’s the door’s primary purpose? 

Not all access points demand equal security. That exterior entrance to your data centre requires significantly different protection than a supply closet.

Is it protecting highly sensitive information, valuable assets or just providing privacy? The security requirements for a rarely used meeting room will differ from those of medicine room in a hospital.

For high-security doors, focus on hardware with robust locking mechanisms featuring strong bolt pins, high lifecycle ratings, high strength and realignment capabilities.

Low-security interior doors might prioritise ease of use and aesthetic over protection. By defining function, you’ll narrow down to hardware that serves its intended purpose.  

2. How flexible is the installation? 

I’ve encountered hundreds of unique door configurations that demand versatile hardware solutions. Take the RCI YD30 Series from dormakaba, it can be installed vertically or horizontally morticed flush into frames, packed out from frames, wood, aluminium or glass-mounted.

Always choose locks offering multiple application possibilities to avoid installation headaches. 

3. Does it match your aesthetic vision? 

Locks are becoming architectural elements that either enhance or detract from your space’s design.

Ask yourself, or your client: ‘Does this hardware complement our existing aesthetic? Can it be customised with finishes that align with our interior design? Will it maintain a sleek profile or protrude awkwardly from doorways?’ It may not be important to you now, but it might be for a customer down the road.

Having customisable options is always ideal.  

4. Can it handle your traffic volume? 

A bustling office entrance experiencing thousands of daily uses requires dramatically different durability than a rarely accessed storage area.

For high-traffic zones with heavy usage, select hardware with lifecycle testing exceeding one million cycles.

While lower-traffic areas or medium usage doors (between 500 and 1M cycles) might tolerate less robust options, avoid cheap hardware that fails prematurely; it’s always more expensive in the long run. 

5. What’s your total cost of ownership? 

Too often, I see decision-makers fixate on initial price while overlooking long-term costs. Lock prices range, from budget-friendly manual options to premium electromechanical solutions costing thousands.

The critical question isn’t, “how much does this cost now?” but rather “what value am I protecting and is this investment proportionate?” When evaluating total cost of ownership, consider first that installation complexity directly impacts labour costs.

Second, maintenance requirements vary: Premium solutions may need minimal servicing over decades, while budget options often require frequent adjustment and component replacement.  

Energy consumption represents another hidden cost that compounds over time. Consider the RCI YD30’s efficiency, drawing just 40mA of current versus a typical maglock’s 750mA.

At 12VDC, that’s roughly $0.71 annually per door compared to $13.40 for a standard maglock. Not staggering numbers in isolation, but for an enterprise with 500 doors, that’s an annual difference of $6,345 in electricity costs alone. 

Finally, quality hardware typically delivers more operational cycles before failure, reducing replacement frequency and associated downtime.

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The RCI YD30 Series has been cycle tested to over one million, so you know you’re installing a durable product.

When factoring these considerations together, premium hardware often emerges as the more economical choice in the long run. 

6. Will it integrate with existing systems? 

Over the last decade or so, I’ve noted standalone locks are becoming obsolete as modern facilities demand solutions that communicate with access control systems, surveillance networks and building management platforms.

While these solutions can be very smart and complex, locks that are system agnostic ensure the act of controlling that lock is a simple process.

A lock that requires only power and a switch input allows for flexibility and control for any access system.  

The ability to retrofit is equally important. Can this solution work with legacy systems during phased upgrades? Will it require extensive modifications to existing infrastructure? The YD30 Series excels here, designed for smooth retrofitting across architectures.

It communicates effectively with many access control systems, minimising integration hurdles. This adaptability ensures your investment remains viable through multiple systems and upgrades, extending its lifespan. 

7. Fail-safe or fail-secure? 

This critical decision balances security against life safety. Fail-safe locks unlock during power failures, prioritising emergency egress but potentially compromising security.

Fail-secure options remain locked, maintaining security but potentially impeding evacuation. Your choice should reflect both code requirements and risk assessment.

The RCI YD30 offers field-configurable operation modes, eliminating the need to stock different hardware types.  

8. How are you solving alignment challenges? 

Misalignment and warping are issues that can affect door security and function. Misalignment occurs when a door no longer fits properly in its frame; warping happens due to moisture or temperature changes, leading to gaps and improper seals.

These issues can make it easier for intruders to bypass security, strain hardware and expose the door to environmental damage.  

A poorly aligned door can also fail to close properly, reducing overall security. The RCI YD30 Series from dormakaba addresses these problems with its precise re-alignment capabilities of ±8mm (±5/16”) – the YD30 ensures smooth operation and long-term security by pulling the door in tight,  helping to maintain functionality and protect property. 

9. Do you require onboard monitoring? 

Real-time feedback to the control panel is crucial for monitoring door status and ensuring security. The YD30 Series provides continuous feedback, alerting the control panel to critical changes in door and lock pin status.

This ensures you can quickly address issues and maintain optimal security without delays or manual checks, improving operational efficiency and peace of mind.  

10. What strength does your application require? 

Every access point has unique security requirements based on threat assessments. Strength/holding force is perhaps the most critical or often asked question I get about any lock.

When evaluating strength requirements, consider both intended and unintended scenarios. How much force might be applied during normal operation? What about during emergency situations or attempted breaches?  

For exterior doors or those securing restricted areas, seek electromechanical locks with holding force ratings of at least 1,000kg (2,200lb). Another question I often get asked about though is side load.

It’s important to be able to get out that door quickly in case of an emergency. This is where the YD30 is in a league of its own.

With a collapsing mechanism, the YD30 Series is engineered to release when requested even under significant sideload pressure of up to pounds.   

It’s crucial to understand that ‘strength ratings’ typically reflect ideal laboratory conditions. In real-world installations, factors like improper mounting and door alignment issues can reduce effective holding strength.

This is why premium hardware solutions include precise installation templates and will realign that door to perfection. 

By asking these questions, you’ll select door hardware that not only meets security needs but delivers long-term value and performance.  

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Everything You Need to Know Before Replacing Your Door Hardware

When we bought this house, the entire thing was a sea of brass and golden oak.  I’ve talked about the struggle to update this early 80’s look in lots of posts before and today is yet another step in my journey to rid myself of the shiny gold hardware that was so popular 30 years ago.



 Not only was the gold out of style, but the handles themselves weren’t even in very good shape.


As a temporary fix I spray painted my medicine cabinet and the front door hardware brushed nickel and it actually held up remarkably well:


I also updated some of the knobs with oil rubbed bronze to see if I liked that look better, which I did. The ORB definitely didn’t hold up as well as the brushed nickel did, but neither of them was the perfect fix.

I knew eventually I was going to have to do something more permanent.. since I just couldn’t stand looking at a hallway full of shiny gold knobs!

So when I finally had the money saved up, I bit the bullet and decided to replace ALL the hardware in my house with black lever handles.  (I decided on black because it was true neutral. Some of my bathrooms have chrome, others have brushed nickel and the kitchen has oil rubbed bronze.  I don’t have matching finishes, so I may as well go simple.

The design I chose was Kwickset Commonwealth from Handlesets.com
I chose them for a couple of reasons:
1. They were relatively inexpensive ($28/passage door and $31/privacy lock)

2. They came in black. (Many brands only had a really dark oil rubbed bronze)

3. The standard handles have reversible handles, meaning you don’t need to know which direction your door swings to order the correct type. (More about this below)

4. They offered mix and match finishes for exterior doors. (I needed to NOT use black on my exterior hardware because my front door had been recently painted black.  I chose the Quickset Hawthhorne for my front door in Satin Nickel) 
You may remember I showed you this handleset when I had my front door reveal a while ago   What you didn’t know was that I also replaced the interior hardware on that door to the new black lever handles as well:

The process of replacing your door hardware is a little more complicated than it first appears.  Mostly ordering the correct items and making sure you have the right sets for each door.  s
I thought I’d give you a quick rundown of what you need to know if you want to tackle doing it.

Types of Handles:

There are actually a few types of door handles you can buy:

Passage:  This is standard door handle with no lock. Used on unlockable doors (bedrooms and offices)and closets.

Privacy:  This is a lockable handle (usually with a turnable knob or button)  that can be ‘popped’ from the outside using a special tool  (so you cannot lock yourself out.) They are used on any room where you don’t want someone to enter such as bathrooms and bedroom, but it is not highly secure.

Dummy handles: These handles are decorative and do not turn or actually include a cylinder that goes through the door to a latch.  They are also used on doors where you do not require an interior handle (shallow closets which are held closed with a magnet for example.) They are also used on one side of double/french doors sets for aesthetic reasons.

Keyed Entrance Standard Knob: This is usually for an exterior door and requires a key on one or both sides of the door in order to lock and unlock it.  It may also be accompanied by a dead bolt for additional security.  Standard keyed handles are typically used on secondary exterior doors (like garages or backdoors) since they are not highly decorative.

Deadbolts: These are the separate locks that are keyed on one or both sides.  They are the most secure way of locking a (typically exterior) door and can be used alone or in conjunction with a keyed entry handle.

Entrance sets: These are are often ornate exterior door handles (versus a regular knob) with a separate deadbolt.  They may or may not also lock on the handle itself.  They are typically ordered as an exterior handle set with a separate interior door handle that matches the rest of your interior hardware.

Keyless entry sets: These are electronic locks which don’t require a key but can be opened by typing a key code into a touchpad on the door or handle.

Directionality/Handing:

When ordering non-locking standard door knobs, the direction the door opens is not important.  You can install a door knob on either the right, left, front or back of a door.  However, when ordering lever handles or handle sets or any handle that locks, you need to know which side of the door you are going to install the hardware so the handle faces the right direction  (trust me.. I originally installed all my hardware upside down since I wasn’t paying attention to the directionality of the doors:
 
Notice that the handles are upside down?  Neither did I.. at first.
Here is another example where the doorknob is upside down:
And here it is installed correctly:  
The direction the door swings and which side the handle is on is called the “handedness” or “handing.”

When ordering you need to indicate if a handle will be “left hand” or “right hand.”  Because you can’t tell my just looking at a closed door (since a handle on the right side of the door in one direction is on the left side from the other.)

 The trick is to open the door (assuming the door swings inwards.. like most interior doors) and stand inside the door frame with your back to the hinges and facing the strike plate.  IF THE OPEN DOOR IS ON YOUR LEFT (remember it will be behind you) IT IS LEFT HANDED DOOR.  IF IT IS ON YOUR RIGHT IT IS RIGHT HANDED.   That is unless the door swings outwards. (Exterior doors and closets typically swing outward) and in that case the handing is the opposite. 

Confusing enough?   Yeah. I agree.
I used this chart to help me figure it out when I was walking around my house making a shopping list and I still installed them backwards the first time!

In the case of my double doors, you have the perfect example of why door handing is so important.
This door set actually required 3 separate handles.  A right hand passage handle (for the right side.. which is the side that latches) and then one left hand and one right hand dummy handle (for front and back of the left door.)

Here at the doors in the upstairs hallway after they had been replaced.   You can see how the doors don’t all swing the same way. One of the reasons I didn’t order privacy locks for those rooms (along with the fact I don’t want my kids locking me out) is that you don’t have to worry about handing if you use reversible passage handles.

Cost:

I mentioned it before, but here is how my costs broke down (not including hinges, since I haven’t replaced the hinges yet).  We have a 3 bedroom, 3 bath house with a two sets of double doors. We have only two handled exterior doors (front and garage- our back door is a slider).  Only our hall closets required handles since our room closets are sliding doors.    So for our house, in total I needed 17 sets of door handles.  If you have a much larger house, or closet doors which require handles, your costs could be significantly higher.


9 Passage Doors: $28/each = $253 3 Privacy Doors (Bathrooms Only) :$31/each = $96 4 Dummy Levers (for 2 double doors) : $14/each = $56 1 Deadbolts (for garage doors): $33 1 Interior Keyable Handle (for front door): $31 1 Exterior Keyable Handleset (for front door): $116 TOTAL COST (without tax): $583

Other stuff you need to keep in mind:

How thick your door is:  This is only a problem in much older homes and on exterior doors.  Most standard doors are 1 3/8-1 3/4 inch thick

Backset: How far over (horizontally) your handle will be installed on the door. 2 3/8- 2 3/4 inches is standard

Bore sizes: This the size of the hole that was drilled in the door for both the handle/cylinder itself and the latch or bolt.  Again these are extremely standard. It is very rare to have an under or oversized bore hole.

Keying: When ordering keyed locks, you need to decide if you want a different key for each lock or if you want them all keyed the same.   Most companies can provide lock sets that only require one key for all of them.


So that is pretty much everything you need to know before tackling a door hardware update. Plus most hardware companies are more than happy to answer any questions you may have about what exactly you need.

Overall, I’m really glad I took the time and spent the money to replace all the handles.  It was totally worth it.  The house definitely feels less dated!

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